The Right Kind of Scary | Y Math Iawn o Frawychus
The Right Kind of Scary
Y Math Iawn o Frawychus
“Few places in this world are more dangerous than home. Fear not, therefore, to try the mountain passes. They will kill care, save you from deadly apathy, set you free, and call forth every faculty into vigorous, enthusiastic action.” John Muir.
We had dwelled at home long enough. It was time to hit a trail. This trip to Wales came after two long days of work. I had worked the Monday and Tuesday and drove to the family home called Tanrallt, on the western edge of the Snowdonia National Park, on the Tuesday evening. We arrived just before midnight after an uneventful, (positive), journey from the Midlands, and the drive up and around the valley, where the diminutive Afon Dwyfach flowed under the mountains that made up the edges of the mountainous national park. We were tired and eager to arrive to where our bed waited. As we crossed the Dwyfach, there on a gatepost, sat a wondrous site. A Barn Owl calmly perched on the post as if it was greeting us to Tanrallt. “Welcome to Snowdonia” it said with its soft and fleecy feathers almost simulating the snow upon the peaks of the mountains it often flies amongst. Upon seeing this owl I knew we were going to be rewarded this weekend. Mother Nature, The Universe, Karma or whoever is actually in-charge was greeting us and boldly saying, “Go For It! Enjoy Yourself!” Maybe it was the sleep deprivation or the barely warm fast food I’d just consumed playing havoc with my senses, but I went to bed that evening thinking of mountains, valleys and endless views.
Due to Monday and Tuesday being full of work and toil, and Wednesday being by far the clearest and driest days, we had very little planning time so decided to stay on well-trodden paths, which by no means were less rewarding. The Llanberis Path was chosen as it would provide us with a physical challenge, plus as we are so often greeted in Wales with grey skies and rain we thought we’d take advantage of the clear skies and climb as high as we could! You can’t get higher than Snowdon south of the Scottish border, and it’s always so fulfilling on its slopes. We parked up in the town of Llanberis and made our way to the start of the path behind the mountain railway station. Llanberis is a busy town at the foot of Snowdon, often packed with hikers, sightseers and tourists. The lakes, steam railways and attractions, such as the Electric Mountain, attract people from all over the world. This, however, was a cold day in October and even though the weather was, for now, playing ball the droves of tourists that flock to Snowdonia in fairer months were residing elsewhere. The normally busy streets and car parks were desolate and it seemed as if the mountain was ours for the taking. Almost as if it was unprotected from its subjects, a god whose audience had forgotten it. We had at least come to pay homage to Snowdon. Lets hope it allows us to pass safely.
Most peoples’ climbs are married with the sound of steam trains slowly making their way up the arduous stack but our climb would be quieter. The train only runs in peak, (no pun intended), seasons, and even though it was October half term the amount of tourist climbers was too low to warrant the operation of the service.
Snowdon might be well-trodden, common place in a hikers journal or note book and often dismissed as a true peak by foolish observers, but it can bite back! If you’re reading this thinking of heading to Snowdonia, especially in winter, then be prepared. The Snowdonia National Park offer this advice to all hikers on the famous peak and we couldn’t agree more…
Plan your route carefully before you set off by choosing a route that suits the fitness level of everybody in your group, not just your own. Reaching the summit is only half the battle so be vigilant as you descend the mountain, as you will become tired and are more likely to slip or trip at this point.
Keep to your planned route at all times and don’t follow others ahead of you – they may be taking a much more challenging and dangerous route than you.
Wear comfortable, ankle-supporting walking boots and suitable clothing. The terrain can be uneven and the weather unpredictable. You'll need a waterproof and windproof jacket and over trousers. In wintry conditions you’ll need to take extra clothing such as a thermal base layer, fleece jacket, gloves and a hat.
Carry a rucksack that can accommodate plenty of food and drink. It’s important to maintain your energy levels, as walking can be hard work. During the summer, make sure you carry extra water and sunscreen, as there is little shade to be found on the mountains.
Take a map and compass with you and make sure you know how to use them. They are an essential piece of kit. Make sure you pack an extra layer of clothing as temperatures can plummet high up in the peaks. It’s vital to carry a torch, whistle, first aid kit and mobile phone, but remember – you’re not guaranteed a signal on the mountain so don’t rely on your phone if you get into difficulty.
Check the weather forecast before you set out and if the weather deteriorates, turn back. Conditions on the mountain can change quickly with fierce winds, low clouds and freezing temperatures making visibility and walking impossible. Visit the Met Office website for a detailed weather forecast before you set out.
Tell someone reliable about your plans, which route you’re taking and what time you expect to return-so they can raise the alarm if you don’t make it back by your given time. Remember to let them know if your plans change at all.
The Llanberis Path is the longest but least steep path up the mountain. We’d previously hiked the Pyg, Miners and Ranger Tracks so we were excited to tick the Llanberis Path off our list. The path starts off steeply and climbs quickly on a tarmac road. The road is steep and really gets the blood pumping into your legs. You’re barely 1/3 of a mile into the walk and you are feeling the burn! Once you pass Penceunant Isaf, a great place for last minute snacks or a hot drink before the climb, you pass through a gate and the long ascent begins. The path is the beginning of the off-road climbing, and can be loose underfoot. The path is a mixture of laid stones and natural gravel. You climb for a long time on the side of the Clogwyn Valley with views stretching out behind you towards Anglesey and afar. Our view at this point was breathtaking, and we could look south past Yr Aran to the south of Snowdon and see distant peaks towards the The Rhinogydd, near Harlech, and the faint outline of mountains further afield. The mountains appeared far away, but also strangely close at the same time, It was like an apparition that may move and trick your mind. The hazy sky helped create a dreamlike appearance to the vista, with its horizon bleached in a silvery sheen. At this point we really began to feel as if we were walking amongst nature that was far greater than our own existence and endurance. These peaks carved and sculpted so long ago have outlasted everything. You have to marvel when thinking of the stories they could tell. The days in history they have witnessed and observed.
The wind was beginning to increase as we got higher and although this is very normal for Snowdon, we were expecting strong winds due to a weather front coming in from the west in the next 36 hours. The cold gusts of wind were hitting us with some intense blasts. We put on more layers of clothing and pushed on up the path.
The footpath continues to climb steadily until you reach Clogwyn Station. Here the train tracks cross over the path via a small bridge and the track continues to rise, but is now heading south towards the summit. Two daredevil mountain bikers hurtled past us at this point, proving how steep it was. They had gathered a huge turn of speed, and with the wind pushing them down the path their tyres and suspension was working hard to negotiate the large rocks, loose stones and gaps in between.
It becomes steeper at this point, and it was also here that the wind really picked up. The views to the north are spectacular with expansive vistas of the Llanberis Pass, the valley and road to the north of the mountain. The sun was shining down into the pass and highlighted every field boundary and farm building as if it was looking down into a map. The odd car could be seen driving through the pass, only visible when the sun glistened off the windows. The landscape here is littered with scars and evidence of mining and quarrying. Huge amounts of the Welsh mountainside has been carved and excavated from the surrounding rock faces. Nature was beginning to claim them back with shrubs and green patches visible making them look like invading armies battling against each other for space on the mountainside.
We began trudging head first into the wind. It took all our might to push against the gusts and stop our feet sliding backwards on the loose gravel under our boots. Our faces became red raw from the dust and debris that was being hurled at our unguarded skin. Our hats were starting to be lifted from our heads and taking photographs on our journey became impossible without risking damage to ourselves, or to our equipment. The mist was being blown in now and the air suddenly chilled; a stark contrast to how it had felt 30 minutes before. The views over the Glaslyn lakes became obscured by the mist, although if you were willing to crouch and wait for a short period, you were rewarded with a view that is surely one of the best in the country.
After the Pyg and Crib Coch paths had joined ours we knew we were on the ridge with very little shelter from the wind. At times it felt as if the mountain was trying to blow us clean off the side with no remorse. The summit was in sight but it took us another 20 or 30 minutes, to be honest it felt longer, to reach it. The rocks changed colour as the damp air transformed them from dry dusty stones to moss clad, wet rock. Slippery to the touch, like oiled stone we no longer had firm ground to steady our weary legs. The summit almost felt like a different world. It was an uncomfortable environment. The rest of the climb suddenly seemed calm and cooperative in comparison. It was now a battle against the fierce wind and soup-like fog to reach the trig point at the peak of the climb. As we saw the trig point the wind became unbearable. If we walked into it, it tried to push us backwards down the slippery rocks and steps we had just fought our way up. There was only one way to the top. We crawled! We got down low and shimmied and shuffled ourselves towards the summit. Even reaching my arm up to touch the highest point was hard but once the celebratory hand-tap was performed on the trig we shuffled back down and gathered our thoughts. A few metres back from the trig we found enough shelter behind a rock stack to grab a drink, flapjack and even a tot of homemade crab apple gin to warm us up. We had planned ahead!
Our walk down was calmer. The wind lessened as we descended toward the gentler slopes of the Clogwyn Valley, and we could finally hear each other talk. The peace had found us again. Our knees jarred at times on the path as our bodies almost fell down the slope. We were exhausted, with good reason. We only discovered after climbing that the winds on the summit that day were 120mph with gusts up to 150mph. The temperature was equally horrifying with a wind chill of -20°C. We were certainly thankful of the gin now! Towards the foot of the mountain we stopped off for a warm drink at Penceunant Isaf, (highly recommended), before making our way back home for some warm food and some rest.
This trip up Snowdon made me fully aware of how the mountain can bite back. I hear a lot of tourists and infrequent climbers saying that Snowdon is easy and that anyone can climb it. This is so not true. You will not hear many people who live and work around the mountain speaking of it like this. The mountain deserves respect and a healthy amount of fear. With this respect you can fully engage with its slopes, weather and behaviours. We started our hike with the belief that we were in for an easy walk up its slopes, but we had the gear to adapt to its changing environment. The mountain showed us why we love it and why it is always a challenge.
Until next time Snowdon | Tan y Tro Nesaf.